Thursday, January 13, 2011

And Spaghetti for Breakfast

It's hard to believe that I have only been here in Jacmel for 4 days. Already I have done so much and experienced so many things I never imagined and made so many new friends (not that I can remember all of their names yet, but I'm working on it!).

I have two friends in particular that I am especially grateful for, Mesye Patrick and Mesye PP (Pierre-Paul). They are both teachers at the school for the deaf as well as youth pastor-type figures at the local Protestant church. They know everyone in town and have taken me under their wing to show me around. They live nearby and walk me to and from places, and they are always making sure I am safe. I especially appreciate this since last night I found myself in the middle of a few thousand people marching down the streets of Jacmel singing praises to God and
carrying signs to further praise the one who kept them alive this time last year and ever since.

It was the one-year anniversary of the earthquake in Haiti yesterday and everything shut down like a Sunday so that people could go to church or remember in their own way. I chose to go to church and I learned why the sign for Protestant in ASL is fists waving above your head. The place was packed with people dancing and singing and swaying and shouting and kneeling and weeping and going absolutely crazy with gratitude and adoration. One of my favorite songs was I Know My Redeemer Lives - mainly because they sang the chorus in English a few times!

After church in the morning, I took a nap to let the incredible humility and gratitude of the morning sink and settle in my brain, I am learning so much here.

In the afternoon I met up with every Christian in Jacmel and together we walked the entire length of the city, singing and dancing and shouting praises to God again. It was incredible. Hours and miles later, we stood in the downtown square/big intersection and waited for the truck which had been carrying the band to unload piece by piece the whole setup and bucket-brigade it through the crowd onto the less mobile stage for the actual message part of the "croisade." Unfortunately, by this point, I was completely exhausted and thinking that I ought to get home in case Marika was waiting up for me, since we usually went to bed around this time (9). So I asked Patrick when it would end, "in two more songs we are going to start." Oh. I said I should leave soon, "no problem" he said and went back to singing. Then I repeated myself a little later, and he said "whenever you say" after this song? "sure." Then the song merged into the next one and he started singing, but then looked at me and I nodded so we took off through the crowd! It was amazing how fast we threaded through this crowd of people and I was about to feel relieved when I saw that now he was talking to his friend Bebe, the Motorcycle taxi driver. Oh dear.

I had heard stories of moto accidents and had already figured out how to say "oh no thank you, i really can't, you see, i promised my mother I wouldn't do anything stupid.." and then here I was sitting on the back of Bebe's motorcycle, cruising through the streets of Jacmel, and trying not to get dust in my eyes but still be able to see in order to brace myself for the inevitable death.
Glory to God I made it home in one piece! Marika was not worried at all, but rather spending the 12th in a different Haitian style, with friends and some good Haitian rum. I showered, drank about a gallon of water and passed out. And this morning, spaghetti for breakfast.

I love Haiti.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Jacmel! (Or Part 2 of a 6 Part Journey)

I made it to Jacmel!! By the grace of God!! My dear friend Tony came and picked me up from the Morquettes Sunday morning and took me all the way back across Port-au-Prince (from Delmas 33 to Bon Repot) to attend the church of his friend (the driver of the taptap). We arrived late, meaning we were seated in the very front. I was not only the only blan in the city, but the only woman without my head covered. Sweet. Then, his friend had us stand in front of the church and introduce ourselves. I went first. i think this is one of those experiences that make people in the US never want to return to church. It wound up being totally fine, i made a little joke and everything seemed to lighten up afterwards.

I couldn't help but make a few observations about the church building while the sermon was being given. It's a large wide room, almost circular. Built with concrete blocks for walls and 2x4s (sort of) for roof support. The roof is a collection of tarps from various relief organizations and there is a wonderful gap between the walls and the ceiling just about everywhere that makes for a lovely breeze. There was toilet paper wrapped around several of the posts as decorations and a red sheet hung behind the stage with some large gold Christmas bows. We sat on 2x10s placed on cinder blocks to make benches and it was sticky and we sat close together. All in all, it was beautiful. It was about John 6, and the bread of life and everything took on a much deeper meaning. When you might not actually eat any bread that day, to say Amen after being told that Jesus is the bread of life and that you will never hunger again means so much more!

I prayed to better appreciate all that I do have, and to keep remembering that I will always have more than enough.

I met up with a medical team from Virginia yesterday at the airport - again thanks to Tony. And we all shared a big van to Jacmel. It was a beautifully curvy road, and we arrived at what felt like very late last night but was in actuality only around 7:30. We met with Marika at a ridiculously gorgeous hotel right on the beach and then I returned with her to her house, a few blocks away. It is also beautiful and she lives here with her two children Anika and Max. They are adorable and sweet and speak a wonderful mixture of Creole French and English. Marika, who has lived here all her life, also teaches Spanish at the local school and works at a school for the deaf in the afternoon - meaning she also signs ASL. Uhh, role model!? Definitely. I am so blessed to be living here for 3 weeks.

I'm not positive what I'll be doing yet besides anything that I'm told - but I'm getting better at that! : )

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Election Day

It occurred to me this morning, Saturday January 8th, that yesterday was election day and I did not tell you anything about it. I assume that if you're following Haiti news at all, you might be curious as to my on the ground impressions.
Ironically, when I wrote the previous entry, on election day, the thought never occurred to me. Primarily because it was such a non-event.
True, I saw armored U.N. vehicles driving through the streets with men and women soldiers in the back with large guns. True, I saw a large plume of dark smoke from what could have been a road blockade of burning tires. True, I saw the Haitian police at major intersections, but they were directing traffic as they always do. And the smoke is always billowing from somewhere. And the U.N. always drive around with impressive weaponry. If I hadn't known that it was election day, I would not have been able to tell. So there you have it, the election news.
As for cholera, there are many banners throughout the section of the city through which we travel. Saying things like: give your baby your breast for the prevention of cholera. Wash your hands for the prevention of cholera and don't drink untreated water. Dr. Junie told me that at King's they have seen 10 cholera patients thus far with no fatalities. It's true that it is a concern, but with many things in Haiti, media hype and the idea of "selling misery" come into play.
I should make the disclaimer that I am in no means a political analyst, or someone who has the most current information on anything. Please take my comments as simply hearsay, a young woman's interpretations of an incredibly complicated situation.

Friday, January 7, 2011

Enough

I speak English. You speak English. We speak English.
But MAN is it a crazy language!!
Today was Day 3 of giving the children who live at King's Garden (the orphanage part of King's Organization) English lessons. The lessons last about 2 hours or until everyone is exhausted (including myself). Today we conjugated to be, to have and to know and then made sentences with nouns, all in the present tense. We then conjugated to be and to have in the past tense and made sentences with both adjectives and nouns. They wound up being slightly depressing! You were pretty. We had a big house. I had a sister. You were a big mother. So we moved on from past tense to sentences with multiple verbs and then onto questions with Do and Does. All was going well and to finish, we learned a new song. Perhaps you know it, it's called "Enough" and it goes like this:
All of you, is more than enough for, all of me. For every thirst and, every need, you satisfy me, with your love, and all I have in you, is more than enough.
You are my supply, my breath of life, and still more awesome than I know. You are my reward, worth living for, and still more awesome than I know.
More than all I want, more than all I need, You are more than enough for me. More than all I know, more than all I can see, You are more than enough for me.
I stood in front of the class, covered in chalk dust (yellow on my black shirt), fending off the mosquitoes that came from who-knows-where as soon as the rain started, and sang this song. It was such a timely reminder.
I am going to Jacmel on Sunday - if all goes according to plans I have yet to make (don't worry mom, I'll make them!) - and will commence the part of my journey where I really am on my own. But even there, I know that I will have more than enough.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Tuesday

We passed a funeral procession on the way to the hospital Tuesday morning. It was a be-flowered hearse followed by taptap and car after taptap and SUV, all full of people dressed in their best black and white attire. The whole procession seemed odd because it was so sunny and because all of the life around the procession continued unaffected. It was not the procession you see in films, with somber music and light drizzle. It was rather humbling, as reminders of mortality often are.

The day continued and I passed the morning sitting in on a presentation in the nursing school on communication and how to act during interviews. It was all in French and I had a rare feeling of linguistic competency. I even made a few jokes to the people around me and the class as a whole at one point. I returned to the hospital not long after being "hired" during an interview simulation and felt particularly joyful.

The hospital did not feel the same joy. I was still trying to track down a few nurses for my sole task of making new badges for the staff and every time I searched one out, I was given the same answer: "l'ap nan sal doperasyon" --she is in the operating room. I knew Dr. Morquette had left for the surgery early in the morning but I was nevertheless surprised at its duration.

I only found out later that the little boy who had the operation passed away on the table.

I did not know him, nor his story. But I saw it all on the faces of his family as they packed their suitcase after hours of waiting, talking, and crying and left the hospital.

The day continued, as days are wont to do, and everything felt odd. Too much "c'est la vie" not enough anger at the tragedy. I am tempted to rant at the injustices of the world and the likelihood that this boy would never have died so young had he not been born into a society with limited access to health care and basic nutrition. But this was just my impression based on stereotypical statistics and I was admittedly very removed. So I will spare you the tirade you've all likely heard me make before and tell you more of this unbelievably long day.

After an afternoon trip past the American embassy (next to the UN headquarters, next to the Philippine Armed Forces headquarters, next to the hospital St. Dominique - all large expansive properties with large fences) to search out some beautiful Haitian metalworks, that night there was a "guitar soiree" at the Morquettes. It was a BBQ/going-away party for Valerie and her beau, Laurent. There was music and laughter and dancing and amazing food and adorable children with whom I played. The most amazing part of it all was not the incredible banann frit or the acoustics of 4 guitarists playing in a concrete courtyard but the fact that Dr. Morquette was the one who did the BBQing, passed around the hors d'oeuvre, served everyone ice cream and cleared the bowls. After a day of surgery and consoling the bewildered and anguished family of a little boy who won't be going home with them.

To end it all, despite my feelings of linguistic competency (I even debated with Dr. Junie the detriments of drinking Coca-Cola in French) and my joy (i.e. pride) at socially surviving the fête, I fell asleep feeling very humbled, hoping to someday have the humility to serve others tirelessly, even at my own party.

Monday, January 3, 2011

Je suis arrivée

After each of my three flights was delayed, I finally landed in Port-au-Prince, surprisingly less than an hour late. My friend Tony was waiting, with car ready. Praise the Lord!

We went all over the city, getting some food, and searching for a phone and phone card. (No luck yet, but will keep you posted). We went to Bon Repo where his aunt and uncle live and are rebuilding their home. It was a beautiful afternoon with a cool breeze and delicious Haitian hospitality.

After several hours of sitting and trying to converse and feeling oh-so-exhausted, Tony's uncle, two cousins and Tony all drove me to the Morquettes, which is apparently NOT on Delmas 33 as I remembered. Nevertheless, we arrived and I met their daughter Valerie and her beau Laurent. We played dominos and laughed, ate delicious dinner (with red sauce!), I read my letter for the week and passed out asleep.

It's my first day "working" at King's and Dr. Junie has me making identification cards for all of the staff. I should get back to it...

Lanmou (Love),

Ana
(the Haitians are very efficient and instead of my name having 6 letters it now only has 3)

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Away We Go

After months of planning and re-planning the day has finally arrived. Bags are packed and checked. Arrangements made and confirmed. Goodbyes said and re-said. As I type, I am sitting in the San Diego Airport waiting to board my first of 3 flights to take me to Haiti.

What I find there will be so different from the luxuries I have enjoyed here but the biggest difference will be the company. I will miss so many people while I am gone, the ease of calling up a friend to laugh the day away, and the comfort of love's embrace.

I am so blessed to be flying into the care of friends. To know that familiar faces will greet me, meet me along the way (Michael and Grace Community Fellowship!) and take me home with them is more than I could have imagined. Thank you to all who are making this trip so unbelievable. I love you all!!

Now boarding flight 3028 to Los Angeles....